Pretty cool list of different types of leather grains. From C&D Jarnagin Co via Antonio Merccariello, a bespoke shoemaking house that recently wrote about the death of handmade box calf. 

B&TAILOR Trousers in action

The Story of How You Saved Money



For anyone who doesn’t want to pay bourgeoise money to look proletarian, J. Crew’s Wallace & Barnes sub-line is worth checking out. The line has been around for a few years now, but has surprisingly attracted little attention from the menswear community. Not totally sure why. The pieces have more of a boutique feel than J. Crew’s mainline, are made from considerably better materials, and are supposedly inspired by the vintage pieces that Frank Muytjens and his team routinely collect for their design archive. All things that make other lines appealing, except that Wallace & Barnes doesn’t come with the same price tags. 

Take these two shirts, for example. The first is made from a heavy and thick cotton canvas, and has an interweaving of brown and cream yarns that gives it a unique textured look. The side seams, yoke, and sleeves are all tripled-stitched, and the overall construction has a sturdiness that’s more reminiscent of RRL than J. Crew. The second shirt is an inky-blue, deep indigo-dyed piece, with a white pin dot pattern that has been woven into the fabric (rather than printed on). The subtle variegation in its coloring makes it feel more hand dyed and special — something more like what you’d expect from a niche Japanese label. I picked up both shirts on sale for $35 and $65, respectively. You can hardly drink at a bar in San Francisco these days with that kind of money. 

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Chloe by zianophoto http://flic.kr/p/oUN5Y9 — http://ift.tt/VzaLei

Turnup for What? 
If you ever find yourself waffling on whether or not you should cuff your trousers, Jesse has a great guide here that he wrote a few years ago. As he noted, cuffs are largely a matter of personal taste, although there are some general guidelines that can be good to follow. Pleated trousers, for example, almost cry out for cuffs, while flat fronts can go either way. And while you can more or less cuff anything, you’ll want to leave them off formal trousers (i.e. black tie pants) and perhaps your most casual (e.g. you can cuff your “dress chinos,” but you might want to leave them off the run-of-the-mill variety).
If you’re still left undecided, then here are two more useful guidelines.
Cuff everything. The reason is simple. You can always remove cuffs from trousers, but you can’t always put them in (depending on how your tailor has hemmed your pants). So unless you’re absolutely positive you want plain hems, err on the side of caution and request cuffs. You can get rid of them later if you decide you don’t like them.   
Think of typography. StyleForum member Parker (who’s day job is in graphic design) once suggested a rubric that I particularly like. Cuffs are sort of like the Times New Roman of menswear. They’re good for traditional, classic, and possibly staid looks. Plain hems, on the other hand, are like Helvetica, and are better suited to more modern, clean, or neutral styles. Whether you get cuffs or not just depends on the expression you want.  
To give some examples, I wear cuffs on any trousers that I might pair with a tailored jacket. So they go on grey flannels, linen pants, and dressy chinos. I also cuff jeans when I’m wearing more “classic” items, such as an oxford cloth button down, chunky cardigan, and white sneakers (as I’m wearing now).
With sleeker looking pieces, such as this black leather jacket I recently bought, I wear the same jeans, but unroll the hems. Same goes for any time I wear double black jeans, which I think of as being slicker looking than my indigo denim. 
In the end, just do what looks right to you. The only sartorial no-no is wearing cuffs on very formal trousers, such as those you’d wear with black tie. This is partly because cuffs are inherently a casual detail (they originated as mudguards) and because they interfere with the braid that typically runs up and down the legs. Aside from that, like Black Sheep said, the choice is yours.
(Photo via SpooPoker)

Linen Sport Coats for Summer
Everyone has their own pick for what they’d consider a summer essential. For me, it’d be a breathable sport coat. Something made from an open weave material — and has little canvassing, lining, or padding inside — will wear much cooler than your standard year-round wools. In fact, as hot as the weather gets in July and August, I don’t even touch my “year round” sport coats until October. 
Most open weave materials can be classified as one of two types: tropical wool and linen. More of than not, breathable sport coats will be made from linen, partly because tropical wools tend to be very smooth, so they’re reserved for suits. The upside to linen is that it not only breathes well, but it’s also a good way to take the inherent dressiness out of a tailored jacket. Nothing says carefree and casual like having a few rumples and wrinkles in your sport coat. 
You can wear linen jackets with almost anything, but I find they tend to look best with linen trousers. Something in a contrasting color, but similar weave, will make it so that your jacket and trousers are distinctive, but also in harmony. That is, pair smooth, tightly woven linens with other smooth, tightly woven linens; and slubby, spongy linens with other slubby spongy linens. A linen jacket will also pair well with cotton chinos, as both will have the same casual, summery sensibility. Between these two fabrics, you have a world of trouser options once you play around with color. 
Don’t get too hung up on rules though. Luciano Barbera once advocated wearing a linen jacket with wool flannels, and while I personally wouldn’t do it — who am I to argue with one of the world’s best dressed men? Patrick Johnson of P. Johnson Tailors is also pictured above wearing a linen jacket with denim. If you want to try that kind of combination, consider getting a jacket that’s slightly shorter in length and forgoing the tie. As usual, the danger with denim plus sport coat combinations is that they can look a bit discombobulated — very dressy up top, too casual down low. Play down the jacket by getting something that has a slightly less traditional cut, and forgo any neckwear. That way, you’ll bring the tailored jacket down a notch in its formality.
(Photo via Patrick Johnson Tailors)