The Sad Motherfucker

iqfashion:

Source: thesartorialist.com - Denim suit

artcomesfirst:

Aperture Camera Flash by ACF

How to wear the double-breasted suit

Suit Up: Ten Mills to Know

our signature Ludlow suit, which is meticulously crafted by skilled artisans (the
process takes over 200 steps from start to finish) is available in everything from
Italian oxford to Japanese chambray. here’s a quick snapshot of the mills that
should be on your radar…

Explore our Ludlow Suit shop here. Follow our adventures with #jcrewonfilm on
Instagram and Twitter.

putthison:

Make Your Own Rain Boots
With spring showers only a month away, it’s worth thinking about what kind of footwear one might need when the weather gets wet. My rainy day shoes of choice are shell cordovan boots. Shell cordovan, which is a leather taken from a horse’s rump, is so dense that it can effectively perform like rubber. I’ve trudged for miles on wet days without any snow or rain seeping in, and with a quick brushing once I get home, my shell boots look even better than the day they came. The only problem is that shell cordovan boots are quite expensive. Even on sale or on eBay, you’re looking at a neighborhood starting price of $500.
The alternative is to pick up a pair of SWIMS galoshes or LL Bean Boots. The upside to SWIMs is that they can be slipped over your normal dress shoes. The downside is that, frankly, sometimes you don’t want to bother with the hassle. LL Bean Boots are less fussy, but they can’t be worn with dressier garments such as suits and sport coats.
A happy medium is learn how to weatherproof the shoes you already own. For suede shoes, I recommend a waterproofing spray, such as this one from Allen Edmonds. Allen Edmonds’ version doesn’t contain any silicone, which is said by some to potentially damage to shoes. Each canister costs about seven bucks and can weatherproof something like five to seven pairs of shoes. I usually give my suede boots two coats before taking them out into the rain 24 hours later. Just be sure to only use this spray on suede shoes, as you can clog up the pores on calf, which would be bad.
For rugged boots, such as hiking boots or workboots, I recommend Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP or Montana Pitch Blend. I wrote a post last year about how to apply Obenauf’s, which readers might find useful. This thick, greasy cream both nourishes leather and helps keep moisture out. Don’t use it on anything besides rugged boots though. On a pair of dressy calf or shell cordovan shoes, this stuff can ruin your ability to ever get a proper shine.
For regular calf or shell, Steven Taffel at Leffot recommends Alden’s Leather Defender. It performs better than the minimal protection one might be able to give with a wax polish, and it won’t ruin your ability to give your shoes a proper shine. From a quick perusal of the online forums, some even say that it helps prevent the dreaded spotting shell cordovan can develop once it gets wet. That spotting goes away with a quick brushing, but it admittedly can be a bit of a hassle. I’m thinking of picking up some Leather Defender next month and trying it out on my shell boots. You can purchase it by calling Leffot and having them ship a bottle to you, or by going through J Crew’s online shop.
For $7 to $15, these all seem like great options, especially when compared to spending $500+ for shell boots, or even ~$100 for some SWIMs or LL Beans. Just have realistic expectations. Your shoes will be water resistant, but they won’t be waterproof. You can’t jump in any puddles or anything, but with some good preventive care, you can happily take your regular shoes out into the rain.
* Big thanks to Steven for help with this article. His store Leffot, by the way, is my favorite shoe shop in the US. Everyone ought to check out their store in NYC, if not at least their webshop.

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These days, our friend PG from MostExerent works for a tech company that frowns on suits. His blog’s now mostly a record of his cycling and travel. There’s no better expert on the shape of tailored clothes, though, and his advice here is very much worth paying attention to.
mostexerent:

Another gem from my archives (2011) which will answer some recent messages & this time uncovered by linenforsummertweedforwinter:
Shape, Drape or Both?
Both is possible & preferable in my opinion - too many are trapped into thinking that tight fitting means shape.. When it is actually the opposite.
See how my jacket still has shape even not button up.
How is this possible?
Start with the shoulders then working down to the cuff:
Make sure they sit on with a slight extension & not before the shoulder point
“Natural” shaped shoulder line gives a softer & more sensual appearance whilst a structured shoulder will add power as well as elegance - nothing wrong with either as long as they suit your body type & not over built.
The chest needs enough fullness & not tightness - see the clean subtle draping. No creases or gaping. Everything looks ”natural”
The waist has ”natural” suppression at the ”natural” waist point to give shape - not tight like a corset
Hips are in line with the shoulder or below to give balance
Pants are sitting at your ”natural” waist not hips
Open quarters aka the bottom of the jacket where the left & right meet (noticeable when buttoned) will mirror the lapels in a figure eight
Skirt of the jacket has a slight flare
Pantaloons are hanging naturally & with a slight break.
So as it starts to warm up, ”airforce blue” is always a great option to wearing navy or grey. Especially if there is some mohair in the mix. This suit is totally different in direct light, it’s like DISCO! So one has to ensure the other components are subtle.
You want to make sure the over all effect does not compete but look ”natural”.
The oncoming eye should not be competing for any detail..
So DITCH the H belt or novelty cuff links..
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit tie - Drakes (this one is a mix of black & navy) | PS - vintage Japanese kimono cloth | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul for GW
* My Sistah just enjoys PHOTO BOMBING!
** FYI - I am standing 3m away from the camera whilst my Sistah is 1.5m
Cut your coat according to your cloth.

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putthison:

Real People: Sockless & Stripes
I’m a bit jealous of Mark in Atlanta. While we’re in galoshes and winter-boot weather in Chicago, he’s been able to go sockless while wearing loafers. I’ll admit to being drawn toward the sockless (or no-show sock) trend for a while, but I’ve come to find it really only looks best with loafers or casual mocc-toed shoes (like boat shoes) because of its informality.
I also enjoy his striped silk knit tie. While Derek has written in the past about the versatility of the black silk knit tie, I think a good second or third silk knit purchase might be ones with stripes or sewn dots. The added pattern allows you to have a casual piece of neckwear that can take an ensemble that’s composed of solids and break the plainness of the look.
-Kiyoshi

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